+ El nuevo easy-going blanco y dorado de Dries Van Noten y las combinaciones cromáticas de sus looks más coloridos +

         + La vanguardista decadencia de Miu Miu, los vestidos de canvas hechos jirones y las "medias faldas" con efecto cortina corredera +

        + Los tejidos técnicos de Proenza Schouler, el negro mezclado con verde agua, y la melena a un lado a lo Alice Dellal +

         + Los 80's de Alexander Wang inspirados en los tiempos de Miami Vice y en los colores de los edificios Art Decó de Ocean Drive +

         + Los drapeados de Lanvin con aplicaciones, sus gamas de azul y la bisutería a juego con el color de la ropa +

        + El aire nerdy romántico de 3.1 Phillip Lim, los colores pastel y los zapatos con detalles escultóricos +

         + El aire kinky de las rockers de Balmain, el negro, el encaje, las hombreras y sí, los jeans lejiados +

Lingerie retrô

Dançarina Dita von Teese lança coleção em parceria com a Wonderbra.

Lembra que nós falamos do revival do visual anos 50 no New York Fashion Week Primavera Verão 2009? Quem curtiu a tendência vai adorar a linha de lingerie criada por Dita Von Teese em parceria com a Wonderbra.

Além do fato de ter sido casada com o roqueiro Marilyn Manson, Dita von Teese é conhecida por seus espetáculos de strip-tease “artístico”, que envolvem performances em uma taça gigante de Martini, por exemplo. O look da dançarina é bem “glamour-anos 50”, e a linha que ela desenvolveu para a Wonderbra reflete esse estilo.

Lingerie Bowl vai ter campeonato próprio em 2009

Liga própria promete atrair atenções dos espectadores da NFL

Felipe Vasconcellos RIO DE JANEIRO /fonte Msn

Será que alguém vai conseguir prestar atenção na bola?

Você, provavelmente, já deve ter acompanhado uma partida de futebol americano, com verdadeiros "armários" disputando as jogadas em campo. Agora, o que acharia de assistir a um jogo do esporte, só que estrelado por modelos vestidas apenas com lingeries e defendendo as cores de times como o Miami Caliente ou o San Diego Seduction?

Pois bem, em setembro de 2009 começa a primeira temporada da Lingerie Football League (LFL), que contará com a participação de 10 equipes, cujas jogadoras se destacam mais pelas suas características físicas do que propriamente pelo talento com o esporte.

A idéia, porém, não é nova. Tudo começou em 2004, quando, pensando em atrair a atenção do grande público masculino que assiste ao Super Bowl e já não demonstrava tanto interesse pelas atrações musicais que ocupavam o intervalo do evento, os organizadores decidiram inovar, promovendo o Lingerie Bowl, uma partida entre modelos que vestiam apenas roupas íntimas, além de capacetes e minúsculas proteções nos ombros e joelhos. Como teve boa aceitação, desde então o evento aconteceu em todas edições da final da NFL, menos em 2007.

Apesar da sensualidade, o esporte não se resume a belas mulheres. Pelo menos é o que garante Kyle Bolin, assessor do Tampa Bay Breeze, uma das equipes da liga.

- Óbvio que ser bonita é importante, mas elas não estão ali brincando. Não ficam se preocupando em não quebrar as unhas e sim em não quebrar o pescoço - afirmou.

Bolin ainda revelou um dado curioso. Diferentemente do que se possa imaginar, a LFL não atrai apenas a atenção dos homens. Segundo o assessor, 40% dos cadastros no site oficial da liga são de mulheres.

And then there's Kenley. Kenley's previous efforts and actions should have earned her a one-way ticket to Brooklyn. But they didn't. And this week, she really showed me something I didn't expect from her: talent, not filtered through her tremendous self-involvement, but just plain talent. It was impressive, and helped me believe that she wasn't kept just to add controversy and color to the show. The reprieve that she was granted last week (not that she'll ever believe there was any possibility that she'd be sent home) means that Kenley was judged on what she did this week, and not what she showed last week. And even though her improved attitude was as genuine as a four-dollar bill, the high caliber of her dresses was undeniable. So she should have stayed, and the judges did make the correct decision regarding Kenley.

By now, it should be plain that Leanne is a genius at design and construction, and there's no way that anybody with eyes could ever question whether she deserved to show in Fashion Week. So we move on to Korto.

We know that I love love love Korto. And though I thought that she did not receive the recognition she deserved earlier in the season, the fact remains that her wedding dress and bridesmaid's dress? Were not up to the level of the items made by the others. And Korto, my beloved Korto, deserved to go home.

But she didn't! Jerell was sent home and I do not agree at all. And I've seen Korto's fashion week collection and I definitely preferred it to Jerell's, but the judges couldn't know this! Based on what was shown, Leanne, Kenley, and Jerell should have been in, and Korto should have been one of the decoy designers. Boo!

Anna Wintour, Chefredakteurin der amerikanischen Vogue und damit eine der mächtigsten Frauen der Modewelt, wartet bei Oscar de la Renta sehnsüchtig auf ihre Kollegin Grace Coddington. In ihrer rechten Hand: BlackBerry, Mobiltelefon und Sonnenbrille.

Ihr rechter kleiner Zeh rutscht aus der Sandalette und kuschelt mit dem flauschigen Teppichboden.

Foto: stardustfashion.com

Some of you may know this - but I'm a Project Runway fanatic! I'm a religious watcher and for the most part, believe in most of their decisions on who should be 'auf'd'. BUT NOT LAST NIGHT!! Last night, the Project Runway judges decided to send home Jerell from Houston, TX based on their wedding design challenge last night. WTF?! Did they not see the atrocity Korto sent down the runway?!

To be fair - they did allow Jerell to show his designs during NY Fashion Week - however, they will not be seen on the show. I just hope they get a little better at their decision making once they move the show over to Lifetime next season. . .

First Exit bei 3.1 Phillip Lim überzeugt mich im Ganzen (auch nach all den Schauen in Mailand, Paris und London). Warum? Hier überschneiden sich Raffinesse und Tragbarkeit auf hohem Niveau: die Details in der Blusenschulter; die perfekt unperfekt sitzende Weste; Hose: lässig wie elegant. Und die Frisur! Seitenscheitel mit gegenüber liegendem Dutt - habe ich schon ausprobiert. Ein Hit.

Foto: stardustfashion.com

Kenley wakes up on the wrong side of the bed, this morning of the final challenge, and we learn that she's not speaking to Leanne because she sabotaged her in the last challenge by not "selling" that mockery of hip-hop get-up on the runway. How mature of her to not take responsibility for that tragically uninspired Alicia Keys costume! Leanne was only playing the part, in the same way that Suede had to summon his inner Emo for the garment Korto designed.

Then Jerell plays make-believe with some fruit and a syrup bottle because he's lonely in his apartment sans Suede. 

I love Heidi's dress here. She should just give it to me.

Tim takes the designers on a ride for this week's challenge, and they end up at the New York Botanical Garden (...I'd really like to go there, it's odd that I haven't been actually). Upon arrival, they're greeted by the L'Oréal guy--you know, the one we've seen now each season around this point in the competition. He looks like Joey Lawrence.

The designers have an hour to snap digital photos and get inspiration from nature to design an evening gown (not a dress for a Fifth Avenue garden party as I lazily guessed because, well, you should know by now that I refuse to give the producers any credit this season). Korto proclaims early on that she'll win as homage to her mama who had a garden when they lived in Africa. Logical.

Kenley says this challenge is right up her alley because of the bright colors, because no one ever wore black to a sock hop! 

Looks likes someone left all of their stuff in Mood. A short scene, but clearly there for foreshadowing.

Now we find out Kenley left her bag with tulle in it at Mood, and everyone's relishing in it, talking about karma and stuff. Hello?! You guys are totally being devious by not offering her your extra tulle! Then Tim tells Kenley that she can go back to Mood and get her forgotten tulle. And I knew he would because Tim is such an amazing human being.

Collier Strong (the L'Oréal guy, again and again!) is giving make-up consultations to help the designers complete their looks. I was expecting Kenley to be very combative with him for some reason but she cooperated.

Kenley's leaving for Mood to pick up her tulle. And the ish talking begins now...

We're learning more about Kenley's childhood. Whenever the designers reflect, I know that this could be that designer's episode to be Auf'd. It's sort of like an homage paid to them by the producers.

Tim on Kenley's reptile dress: "How do scales fit into a botanical theme? That's more oceanic."

Tim tells the designers he's so proud of them. Now the pressure's on, because no one would ever want to disappoint Tim. Leanne getting teary thinking about how much work she has left to do on her dress.

Then Jerell is cries. And now, Korto as well. I can't blame them--it is emotional!

Kenley calls Leanne's dress her usual pleating with a muted color palette. Maybe she's right about the pleating part, but it really reminded me of Santino's dress in the Barbie challenge season 2.

Kenley's dress seemed like, too literal of an interpretation of the photograph inspiration to me. I get where she's derived the "scales" but maybe she should have just let her gown reflect the color, like Jerell did.

On the runway, I just knew that Heidi would comment on the boob fit of Jerell's dress. She's always hypercritical when it comes to the fit of the bust zone.

Nina on Kenley's lizard gown: "The whole thing looks kind of creepy."

Kenley on Heidi's comment that her dress wasn't elegant: "Elegant wasn't the look I was going for, HEIDI." B'oh?!

Why did the judges wait until now to call Kenley out on being flippant and rude? Even Tim said something last week, and Tim's the world's nicest person!

This is always my favorite part every season: "Who should come with you to Bryant Park?" I think we all know who's getting thrown under the proverbial bus but I'm dying to hear what Kenley will say!

Of course, all of the designers would rather Kenley not join them at NY Fashion Week, and Kenley calls out Korto--I think this season just redeemed itself. There is going to be some major awkwardness backstage during deliberation! Backstage, Korto yells at Kenley for always picking on her designs.

Meanwhile, in deliberation, the judges say that all of the designers had a bad day in terms of taste and construction, and Michael Kors ponders out loud whether a defensive Kenley will kill her potential prospective buyers.

Well, I want to see Jerell, Korto, and Kenley go to NY Fashion Week!

Woooooo! Jerell won! But in an unsure twist that we saw happen last season with Chris March and Rami, no one gets eliminate now, and EVERYONE will be doing a collection. I think this is the right decision. I think it will be easier to make a more definitive decision after we see a few pieces from their respective collections.

Everyone's group hugging it out and Tim tells Kenley to let bygones be bygones. And she doesn't, and sits in a chair watching Tim hug everyone. Strange.

Buzz up! this story

What do all my favorite designers have in common?  THEY ARE ALL FROM CALIFORNIA! I have anticipated this entry because I feel like this fact too often goes under the radar.  What we do hear is that L.A. Fashion Week is a joke [mostly true] and that NYC is the fashion capital of the world.  Well, where would that city be without all of our California natives?

California, particularly L.A., has received a bad wrap in regards to its fashion choices, but there is no denying that these talents have made the Fashion Intel proud.  In addition, I would like to point out that some of the best fashion bloggers, Because I'm Addicted, Chictopia, Diabolina, Fashion Toast, Karla's Closet, Taghrid and That's Chic are ALL California girls.

Now that fashion month is winding down, I wanted to share which looks inspired me during New York Fashion Week from my favorite [Californian] designers.  You can count that this Spring [I know Winter hasn't even started!!!!] I will be wearing my hair in a bun and touting ruffles, black, gray and bondage heels.

Here is a breakdown, if you were wondering more specifically where these designers came from: Vena Cava [South Pasadena], Erin Fetherston [Piedmont, UC Berkeley grad], Jenni Kayne [Los Angeles], Phillip Lim [Westminster, Long Beach State Grad], Rodarte [Nor Cal, Pasadena, UC Berkeley grads], Alexander Wang [San Francisco]

Before, I only lasted about 15 minutes before I had to change the channel, but I had to see what this lady was all about.

Despite our differences in style, it was apparent to me that she is great for a certain type of client and she definitely is in touch with the top designers.

However, she is so not in touch with concept of money. Her constant buying and hiding the purchases from her husband is not a quality I find to be good personally or professionally. That kind of spending and lying is a recipe for a disaster waiting to happen.

Other than that, I think she did a good job for what people expect from her. However, I think she could stand to find a few minutes in her day to de-stress and find more balance in her day.

But, keep in mind, I'm not a celebrity stylist. I work with people who have to be a little bit more practical than what comes down the runway during Fashion Week. For most, it's just enough to get them into clothes that are flattering to them and work for their lifestyles. Then we can move into a little bit more trend.

I did find out that Rachel Zoe does plan on launching a collection. It makes me wonder if the show is just a launching pad for the collection.

What I want people to understand is that when you watch shows like this, you see a lot of celebrity stylists with shows backed by lots of money. But that is not the norm. Most of us personal stylists are working with the client's budget to make their style work. Believe me, if I could hand every client $5000 for a new wardrobe, I would. So, I don't want potential style clients for anyone to be disappointed because of what you've seen on TV. That's really the only problem with makeover shows.

Now, if you haven't made your personal styling appointment or personal shopping appointment yet for the holidays, what are you waiting for?

I'm offering free one hour consultations during the month of October. Also, when you sign up for a package, you will receive 10% the cost of the package -- but only during October. Once November 1st comes, time will really fly as we head toward the holiday season so make your appointments now to avoid the stress and strain of holiday shopping. You will also save yourself much needed money and gas by letting me do the work for you.

Email me at baltimorestylist@gmail.com to schedule your consultation.

Do it now, before you forget.

The four remaining designers were really stressed out this week, in their final runway show before New York Fashion Week. Their challenge was to create an evening gown, and everybody felt the pressure. There were tears and mini breakdowns and bleary eyes and glasses instead of contact lenses, and it was pretty much awesome. All of anti-Kenley hostility that has been simmering for the last several weeks kind of exploded tonight. Leanne, Korto, and former Mean Girl Jerell all made very little attempt to hide their contempt for Kenley. As usual, it was pretty impossible for me to feel bad for her, since she caused a lot of this with her poor attitude and misplaced sense of superiority.

The other designers and the judges all made mention of her attitude, and she basically acted as though the lot of them were making it up. Top American Designer* Michael Kors had it right - how well is Kenley going to in an industry where one's creative vision may not be appreciated or shared by those on whom one depends for one's livelihood? Not everybody is going to agree that Kenley is a genius, and she should probably be prepared to think about criticism and evaluate its relevance before dismissing it completely. I like how the guest judge this week, Georgina *married to one half of the bazillionaire duo who produces this show* Chapman was like, "I do not see what I thought I would," about Kenley. There were no floral prints or 50's shapes, but the defensiveness was there and Mrs. Bazillionaire still seemed singularly unimpressed.

So what did I think about the way the judges chose to end this challenge? I thought it was pretty darn awesome. Why? Because it's tv! Drama is always appreciated, as long as it's is somehow justifiable and not just for the sake of being dramatic. Kenley and Korto have made enough great things on this show that it makes sense that neither of them would be easy to send home. I think that I have been inspired by Heidi Klum, Nina Garcia, and Top American Designer Michael Kors, who have been on the receiving end of several of Kenley's eye rolls, sighs, and ridiculous responses, and still thought that she deserved a chance to compete for a spot at Fashion Week. I also like that nobody gets to rest on his or her laurels. It would have been easy to do what they did last year and only have two people compete for the final spot, but this adds intrigue and an extra bit of motivation that Jerell and Leanne might otherwise be without.

I always like to see what the designers can come up with when they have much more money, time, and sleep to bring their vision to life. I can't wait for next week, because it's always fun to see how time away from each other and watching the episodes at home influences how the designers interact when they reunite for the clip show.

The designers:

I really am impressed with how un-ridiculous Jerell's stuff is of late. Sure, his dress tonight did need a bit of work, but compared to what he was cranking out the first few weeks of this season, his improvement is nothing short of inspiring. Like Kenley, Jerell has been known to talk smack and offer a mean running commentary about others' work. Unlike Kenley, Jerell's work mostly backs up that talk.

There's a special place in my heart for Leanne, who managed to fight her way out of thin, brunette anonymity to become recognizable not only by her face but also by her interesting designs. She's another one whose first few weeks of work definitely didn't seem promising, but I'm glad that she's stuck around. Her designers are infinitely wearable and show a lot of thought and work. Plus, she seems to dislike Kenley quite a bit, which only makes me love her more.

Nobody needs to be told that I am rooting for Korto, right? I love her sense of color and style, and would happily wear whatever she chose to put me in. She's funny, but knows how to shut a person up when that is called for. I think it's telling that Kenley hates Korto's stuff, since the things that Korto makes often seem like they did actually originate in the twenty-first century.

Last, both in my affections and this wrap-up, is Kenley. The girl's got talent; I'm not going to lie. And I've got the shape to rock a 50's style frock, so I really do appreciate her designs. My main problem with her, aside from the fact that she only ever produces some slight variation on one pattern, is that she has the worst attitude of any Project Runway contestant ever. EVER! And this is the show that gave us Wendy Pepper and Santino Rice. I've never seen anybody so unwilling to accept criticism and responsibility for her own choices. Self-confidence is great. It's necessary, and it's how you advance yourself through life, but too much is just as damaging as too little. Why can't she just think about what people say to her, instead of mouthing off? If I mute her while I'm waching the show, I am usually much more inclined to like what she's done.

* I love this designation and will never again say this man's name without using what is not doubt a contractually-obligated phrase.

However, out of the lot, it’s perhaps Marc Jacobs that really asks you to be bolder and more beautiful than ever come this spring, with the newly launched collection of bags plus accessories at New York Fashion week.

To start with, as attractive and colorful as this new line might be, it’s not for everybody.

Marc Jacobs has always been a designer for the select few because his limits in terms of creativity are close to non-existent, therefore everything that comes out bearing his signature is audacious beyond imagination.

The same note of boldness characterizes the latest line as well – multi-layered, shiny and almost too flashy for their odd combination of colors, the Marc Jacobs bags are made exclusively for women who are not afraid to have all eyes on them no matter where they go.

And, believe it, that will happen – guaranteed – with one of these totes strapped to one’s shoulder.

While there is close to none innovation in terms of size (we have either huge handbags or minuscule totes), what Jacobs brings new to the scene is a certain feeling that any woman proudly donning one of his latest creations cannot do so without being accompanied by a fanfare and the amazed gaze of passers-by.

These bags not only speak originality and independence – they literally scream for well-deserved attention with everything they got, from the many purls and fringes, to the chains and beads that seem to almost bear down on them.

And, as if this splash of color brought by the bags was not enough, Marc Jacobs also invites his female costumers to take even that extra step with his accessories, to borderline extravagance. This time, size is everything, as also is quantity.

Huge bracelets, juxtaposed if possible and of contrasting shades, are clearly a must.

Obviously, whoever is the proud lady to pull this combo off without a hiccup can’t but be the very essence of glamour – which is precisely what Jacobs was aiming for here.

http://news.softpedia.com

Take for instance, Gucci.  Poor Frida:  From Cathy Horyn of the New York Times "(...) are they a look you  expect from Gucci, or Liz Claiborne? Are they even a Look?" And from WWD: "Gucci looks are all over Zara."

OUCH!  Or as we say in France, AIE!  Zara - Gucci - Gucci - Zara....?

Sure, every designer gets sliced once in a while by the Cathy Horn razor blade.  But I must say that what shocked me the most was the display of pure, unadulterated copying at D&G.  A complete Chanel knock-off!! Take a look for yourself!  Scandalous!

Being French, and living for French fashion, I cannot accept this type
of plagiarism.   Bisoooooo!

Nina Evangelista
www.ninaevangelista.wordpress.com
ninaevangelista@hotmail.com

Entre New York e Milão a semana de moda de Londres começa com a pressão para diminuir o tempo do evento inglês, a euforia por parte da organização para que isso não aconteça e mesmo assim com muita agitação e ‘invenção de moda’ na capital fashion mais descolada entre as principais semanas de moda do mundo.

Enquanto algumas pessoas taxam New York como a lado comercial da moda global, Londres fica com a fama de vanguarda, irreverente e criativa – no sentido mais profundo da palavra – onde tendências são criadas e onde o conceito artístico entra com o pé direito e esquerdo na passarela.

A briga entre os bam-bam-bams do mundo fashion começou porque a colega New York Fashion Week quer mais tempo pra preparar suas coleções e desfiles, por isso quem participa do evento de lá pediu para cortar dois dias do evento daqui e assim começar os desfiles dois dias mais tarde na América.

É claro que a notícia não agradou os britânicos que não aceitaram a proposta vinda de New York e Milão. O medo da organização do evento em Londres é que estilistas e marcas de peso começem a pensar no enfraquecimento da semana de moda na Inglaterra e decidam apresentar suas coleções em outra Fashion Week pelo mundo.

Depois de alguns dias de discussão e, segundo diretores do British Fashion Council (BFC), pelo bem e a continuação do crescimento da indústria de moda mundial, NY vai poder começar um dia mais tarde, tirando assim um dia do calendário da semana de moda de Londres. Agora, com apenas cinco dias para apresentar cerca de 50 desfiles, os envolvidos com a moda local juntamente com o BFC, prometem desenvolver os próximos eventos ainda mais poderosos e impactantes.

A London Fashion Week recebe aproximadamente 5.000 compradores, jornalistas e designers vindo de todos os lugares do mundo, movimentando cerca de 20 milhões de libras na economia de Londres. Grandes nomes como Vivienne Westwood, Julien Macdonald, Paul Smith e Luella Bartley desfilaram nesta última semana na capital as tendências para a primavera e o verão de 2009.

Brasil em grande estilo
A brasileira Daniella Helayel, da marca Issa desfilou uma coleção que tinha como título “Copacabana chega a Londres” e ninguém menos que Naomi Campbell entrou na passarela para mostrar as roupas da marca. Além disso, Issa que já é famosa por vestir celebridades de peso, contou com uma primeira fila das mais estreladas, com direito a presença das princesas Beatrice e Eugenie.

I didn't necessarily think that Suede should have gone home for the boring rock and roll outfit that he made Jerell, but I would not argue that, cumulatively, his missteps outweighed those of the other designers. Despite his relentless use of the third person, somehow Suede wiggled his way into my heart (just a little), and I was actually slightly sad to see him go. He's like that annoying, boozy barfly whose futile attempts to speak in complete sentences and be taken seriously are so funny that you're a little sad when the bartender finally cuts him off and pours him into a cab before the night is over. Now who's going to entertain you?

Still, it's not so much that Suede's talent is one that I'm going to miss (I'm not saying that he isn't talented, but I'm not going to lose sleep next week wondering what he would have made if he'd remained on the show instead of Kenley). It's just that I hate Kenley's attitude so much, I'm not inclined to be fair or reasonable about anything related to her. Her sense of entitlement is making me ill. I'm all for self-confidence and pride in one's work, but she takes these perfectly good qualities to unreasonable levels. In Kenley's world, any time that somebody doesn't just adore her stuff, it's not because she's made a mistake or interpreted the challenge incorrectly, it's because that person JUST DOESN'T GET IT. She cannot conceive of a universe where her best effort isn't right the first time out, and doesn't understand why others don't love her as much as she loves herself. She lacks perspective and cannot accept criticism in the spirit in which it was intended. How does she expect to learn anything from 1) a well-known desinger, 2) a former fashion magazine style editor, 3) a pretty freaking awesome supermodel, and 4) any number of guest fashion luminaries if she won't listen to their advice long enough to see how it might apply to her designs? I really admire Tim for even trying to explain to her how her attitude is getting in her way, but I am in no way surprised that she immediately discounted everything that he'd said to her. She's a brat, and I use such a childish word because she seems to have an attitude more commonly found in 15-year-old girls.

I continue to be impressed with Jerell. He really has made such great strides from where he was at the beginning of the season, and although his attitude sometimes resembles Kenley's, at least he has the talent to kind of back it up. It would have been really interesting if he'd won four challenges in a row, and his work is such that I would not have felt that Korto was slighted if he'd won tonight. I'm glad that Korto won tonight, if only because that meant she actually cracked a smile on the runway. Usually, she looks like the judges just offered her a choice between the dungeon or a day in the stocks.

Also, I know it's not fair, but I'm unreasonably excited that there will be at least two female designers officially going to fashion week this year (as opposed to being decoys). It seemed like the women of of season five really had the chops that were mostly lacking in their male counterparts, and I'm excited to see who wins. [Full disclosure: thanks to the wonderful Jezebel, I have already seen the collections of the five designers (those still in the competition, plus Joe and Suede) and know which are in my personal top two, but I don't pretend to be able to guess what the judges will think.]

Other thoughts:

I'm not even remotely interested in that design show after Project Runway, but the tiny Asian guy with the horrible little voice makes me want to do damage to my ear drums. I know it's horrible to make fun of somebody for something that he has no control over and that he cannot change, but his voice just bugs me so much. I program my dvr to continue to record for a couple of minutes after Project Runway is over (I'm paranoid about missing something), so this isn't the first time that I've gotten this particularly unpleasant surprise.

Vestidos são destaque do Fashion Week nova iorquino

Parece até que foi combinado: dos 12 desfiles que rolaram no quarto dia de New York Fashion Week Primavera 2009, oito tiveram forte presença do cocktail dress, aquele vestido mais ou menos na altura do joelho, perfeito para quem quer fazer bonito em festas que não pedem traje social.

Com exceção da Gottex, de moda praia, Z Zegna, masculina, e Diesel Black Gold, todas as coleções apresentadas tinham várias versões do cocktail dress! Confira as fotos e escolha os seus favoritos:

Vestidos Twinkle by Wenlan

Visual de Peter Som

Luca Luca

Yeohlee

Muito drapeado na coleção de Tony Cohen

Ports 1961

E as exceções:

Carolina Herrera deu destaque aos longos

Diesel Black Gold aposta nas calças mais larguinhas

por Sarah Lee

Fashion week is a flurry of outfit changes, alterations, filling a huge room with people, especially A-list folks. It is the most stressful part of the year for any designer, old and new.

Styles come and go but a solid designer is always in style no matter the season.

Diane von Furstenberg, Nicole Miller and Cynthia Rowley are just a few names that are always stylish not matter summer, fall or spring though their styles differ in many ways.

Diane von Furstenberg’s Spring 2009 line, entitled “Rock Goddess,” held a few edgy pieces but more of a flowy, glamorous hippie vibe. It was colorful, airy and comfortable. It was nothing short of amazing, which can always be expected of von Furstenberg. She had mostly dresses but included a few free-falling tops and tailored pants. It had a slight resemblance to Nicole Miller’s spring line, which theme was based on her travels to Haiti. This added very vibrant colors and edgy patterns. She also incorporated free-falling tops but had a more rugged, edgy vibe than von Furstenberg. She played well into this with multiple pieces of feminized, men’s wear. Also opposing von Furstenberg, Miller was heavier on the tops and pants and lighter on the dresses. Cynthia Rowley on the other hand had a nice combination of both, separates and dresses, though Rowley’s line was way more structured, less vibrant colors and had a lot more of an edge. Like Miller and von Furstenberg she incorporated bits of influence from men’s wear, like tailored jackets.

Von Furstenberg, Miller and Rowley all had completely different influences and themes but yet some patterns could be noticed between the three. Although color was apparent in all, black and gold were very common features within all of the lines. This added edge and a little sexiness to each. Scattered, flowing prints were also highlights between the lines. They added feeling, movement and life unanimously throughout each line. Spring is about new life and beginnings, it is a time to reflect and evolve and each line has some of these feelings with a splash of boldness. What designer will you unleash into you wardrobe this spring?

xo

ta(y)tum

Fashion Week Hullabaloo

Here's to part two of my NY Fashion Week series, featuring RTW Spring 2009 collections from Alexander Wang and United Bamboo. On another note, I find it rather amusing that the fashion industry has decided to adapt electoral imagery for its theme this year. In my own opinion, it's just another effort to capitalize on the heated interest in this year's rather interesting elections.

Alexander Wang

To be honest, I am not sure why I am so fascinated by Alexander Wang. Is it his urban knitwear? Is it the fact that he's a Chinese-American kid who was born and raised in the SF Bay Area? Or is it the fact that at just he became the rising star of the fashion industry during his Sophomore year in collage? I don't know...but this 24 year old, this guy has already established a name for himself in a rather cut-throat industry.

United Bamboo

Not sure if many people are aware of this, but United Bamboo shares its name with Taiwan's largest triad society (i.e. gangsters, organized crime or what have you). Though it is doubtful that the two founders did this intentionally. Miho Aoki, a native of Japan, and Thuy Pham, a native of Vietnam, launched the label and lifestyle brand is a collaborative cultural project with downtown artists, curators and musicians.

A few of my favorite pieces.

This morning I had the privilege to interview Metro Detroit's own, designer Joe Faris.  The latest contestant to be bid Auf Wiedersehen by Project Runway, we chatted about his experience on the show, Project Runway's influence, Bryant Park and his upcoming collection.

After being away from his family for 6 weeks, Joe didn't have to wait long for the first episode of Project Runway to air; just 10 days. I asked him what it was like to watch that first show at home.   "Surreal" he replied. "It's similar to when you hear your voice on an answering machine.  You know what your voice sounds like in your head, but until you hear the recording, you don't know what everyone else hears."

So were there any surprises when Joe saw himself on television for the first time?   

"Yes, my nose."  Your nose?  "Yes, it was BIG."

Joe has an excellent sense of humor.  I prefer to live in denial of what I would look like on camera.  I couldn't bear to see myself another, 10 pounds heaver.

Prior to the show airing, Joe commented that he might only watch the first episode.  I was curious to know if he watched all the episodes and if there was anything said behind the scenes that may have bothered him. 

Overall, he was pretty happy with the way he was portrayed.  Some other unnamed contestants felt that they were "edited", but his philosophy was if you said it, you said it.  There's no editing words into your mouth. 

He did however, find Leanne's comment "Why is Joe still here?" a little surprising because he felt that they were on friendly terms.

Speaking of editing, I asked Joe if he had any funny stories about his time on Project Runway.  There seemed to be nothing more that the banter that we saw on the show, with the occasional teasing or jabs.  He did say though, that there was certainly enough filmed material to put out what he called  "box set" of extras.  That could be interesting...

I was curious to know what sort of opinions Joe's friends and family had when they watched the show with him.  Several people told him that he should have won and that he did a great job.  Others, didn't hold any punches.  Those folks pointed out where he may have made mistakes or what he should have done for better results.  He said that he didn't get much positive feedback when it came to the last challenge.

Viewers may be wondering why he struggled a little when it came to draping and sewing.  After all, he did go to school at Parsons right? 

Well, on a typical day, Joe uses a computer to create his designs, rather than a form.  Re-discovering those those skills proved to be a bit of a challenge.

One of my favorite episodes was "What's Your Sign" where contestants created a design based on either their astrological sign or their former contestant partner. 

Remember my favorite Michael Kors "Pooping Fabric" comment?

During this challenge, contestants had the opportunity to meet with Heidi's "favorite" NYC designers.  During the four hours that the contestants met with prior Project Runway favorites, Joe seemed to connect with fellow Michigander Daniel Vosovic and Kara Janx.  When asked about the others, Joe said he couldn't believe how vulgar Jaye was.  He wouldn't be specific, but it seemed to make a lasting impression.  And Christian was, well... Christian.

Moving on to Bryant Park, those of us who followed New York's Fashion Week two weeks ago, discovered that six contestants were chosen to show their stuff at the famous venue.  I asked Joe what it was like being apart of such a coveted experience.  He told me that he was home for 10 days and then he was called back to the show to spend another 4 weeks working on his Fashion Week collection. "It was everything you would think it was. I was incredibly happy.  That's the prize." 

But what about that moment when you are standing on the runway, ready to introduce your collection?  "It was nerve wracking."  He told me that he asked the producers "what do people say?"  At which point the producers reassured him to speak from the heart. 

Joe described his collection as representing "America, multi-cultural, motor cycle, and Rock & Roll".

When speaking about his collection, Joe felt less pressure in his position (he knew he was already eliminated) to design for the judges.  Had he been in the top three, he felt that he would have focused more on evening wear rather than leather.

Joe currently works as Senior Designer at Schott NYC and has worked with companies like Inkslingers where there has been a heavy focus on jeans, t-shirts and leather.  I wanted to know, after competing in Project Runway, did he think that it may have a new influence on his work?

"Yes" was his answer.  He customarily does not design dresses which have the need for draping.  So, Project Runway sparked that interest somewhat. 

While working on a collection for Schott NYC, he is also developing his own collection of approximately 20 pieces.  When speaking about dresses, he felt comfort was key, "it should feel good, like a great pair of jeans."

Well, I could sure use that.

The collection is due to launch in January.

To read more about Joe Faris and his work, go to redflyusa.com.

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Nuj Novakhett

Nuj Novakhett (pronounced Newzj Nova-ket) is an up and coming designer hailing from Thailand. From what I have read, she got her start by secretly enrolling at Parson's School of Design during her study abroad in the U.S., instead of completing the family-approved political science degree. You've got to admit, the girl's got guts!

Nuj's line first debuted in Spring 2006. This season, she created a rather unique presentation by displaying her collection on 4x4 girls on a white platform in a studio setting.

Jason Wu

Jason Wu is 25 year old Taiwanese-Canadian designer with a global perspective. Born in Taipei, he grew up in Vancouver where he learned to sew and make patterns. At the age of 14, he went to Tokyo where he studied sculpture and spent his senior year of high school in Paris, during which he decided to be a fashion designer.

Jason's collection "celebrates" a women's hourglass figure with a vintage style that's classic and timeless. Looking through his RTW Spring 2009 collection, I can't decide if he is pulling his inspiration from the 40s, 50s or 60s, but either way, I just love the look that he's created this season.

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