Farmers of Bhaktapur working in paddy field, separating rice beads in a traditional way by using wind on Saturday , 11 October 2008.

A woman works at the potter square, Bhaktapur.

A woman works at the potter square, Bhaktapur.

A woman works at the potter square, Bhaktapur.

If his name was HARRY, he would be HARRY POTTER.

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Filipino, also known as Tagalog, is the official national language in the Philippines with English considered as the country's unofficial one. Both English and Tagalog are taught in school starting in grade one. In addition, there are over 111 dialects spoken throughout the different regions of the country.

Hospitality is one of the Filipino characters that truly distinguish them from other Southeast Asian people. A visitor is treated as the most important person they have ever met and will be introduced to the best the family can offer - the best food, the best place in the table, the best things, and, if they have to stay overnight, the best room and beddings!

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Este par de estructuras de madera de Nepal, que data de alrededor del siglo XVII o anterior, es un ejemplo interesante del tradicional tallado en madera de la región. Las tallas representan guardianes o protectores itifálicos (1). Ellas seguramente han sostenido y adornado uno de los muchos niveles de algún templo en el Valle de Katmandú, ubicadas en ángulo entre el muro y el borde del techo. Probablemente, la madera utilizada es la conocida con el nombre de "sal" (2).

(1) Del griego ithys = erecto y phallos = falo. Definición: "con el pene erecto". Nombre con el que se designaba a ciertos dioses (Min, Amón, Osiris resucitado), en virtud de su capacidad fecundante y regeneradora. Este poder de carácter mistérico y trascendente no puede interpretarse simplemente como un atributo sexual. En las religiones de la India y del Egipto estaba asociado a la idea de la resurrección. "Estas imágenes sólo simbolizan de un modo muy expresivo la fuerza creatriz de la Naturaleza, sin intención obscena alguna. No es más que otra manera de expresar la generación celeste que hará entrar al difunto en una nueva vida" Mariette Bey.

(2) Sal - Agrath - Shorea Robusta. Es un árbol no muy alto que se encuentra en Nepal. Está considerada una de las más importantes maderas de la zona. Se utiliza para la construcción de edificaciones y para cualquier tipo de obra donde se requiera de su fuerza y durabilidad. La madera de “sal” es frecuentemente elegida para las tallas de los templos y decoraciones de vigas y puertas.

Los Techos de Nepal

Los Soportes de Techo de Nepal

El Valle de Katmandú

Según la mitología el Valle de Katmandú fue un lago sagrado rodeado de montañas. Era una importante ruta comercial entre la India y el Tíbet, lo que explica su contexto histórico-político además de su importancia económica y artística.

La Ciudad de Katmandú

Katmandú también conocida como Kantipur es la capital de Nepal y se encuentra en las cercanías del río Vishnumati, a una altura de 1.317 metros sobre el nivel del mar. El nombre de Katmandú deriva de Kasthamandap, una imponente pagoda en la Plaza Durbar (1). Katmandú está separada de la ciudad de Patan por un corto puente sobre el río Bagmati.

La Plaza Durbar de Katmandú

Este es el lugar histórico de los antiguos reyes de Nepal. Un complejo con muchos templos y monumentos construidos entre los siglos XII y XVIII intrincadamente rodeado por un laberinto de callejuelas, casas con tradicionales balconadas de madera y mercados callejeros.

La Ciudad de Patan

También llamada Lalitpur ("la ciudad hermosa") se encuentra al sureste de Katmandú. La distancia entre las dos plazas es de aproximadamente siete kilómetros. Está colmada de templos hindúes y budistas, monumentos de bronce con pasarelas, deidades protectoras y maravillosas esculturas. Es la ciudad de las artes plásticas. Se dice que las cuatro estupas que se encuentran en las esquinas que marcan los límites de Patan, fueron construidas por el gran Emperador budista Ashoka alrededor del año 250 AC.

La Plaza Durbar de Patan

Situada en el corazón de la ciudad es la principal atracción turística. La plaza de forma rectangular está rodeada de antiguos palacios, templos y santuarios hábilmente adornados con exquisitos tallados.

La Ciudad de Bhaktapur

Para llegar a Bhaktapur (19 km del centro de la ciudad de Katmandú) uno tiene que viajar por una carretera bordeada de verdes campos de arroz y casas de ladrillos. Fue la capital del país durante la dinastía Malla. Su nombre proviene del sánscrito bhakta = devoto y pura = ciudad, es decir “ciudad de los devotos”. También es conocida como Bhadgaon que es su nombre en idioma bengalí. La ciudad está a una altura de 1.400 metros sobre el nivel del mar.

La Plaza Durbar de Bhaktapur

Es un conglomerado de pagodas y Shikharas (construcciones sobre una base cuadrada, en las que el peso del edificio es soportado por pilares) agrupadas en torno a un palacio llamado de las “Cincuenta y Cinco Ventanas” construido en ladrillo y madera. Conserva todo su ambiente medieval en sus ricas tallas de dinteles, tímpanos, puertas, vigas y ventanas.

(1) En nepalés, Durbar significa “palacio” o “del Palacio”

This pair of wooden struts from Nepal, dating from around the 17th century or early, is an interesting example of the wood carving tradition of the region. The carving depicts ithyphallic (1) guardians or protectors. The struts would once have adorned one of the many-tiered temples in the Kathmandu Valley, forming a bracket between a wall and the edge of a roof. Probably the wood used is “sal” (2).

(1) Etymology: from ithyphallos erect phallus (ithys = straight and phallos = phallus)

Definition: showing erect penis in art: in sculpture, painting, or other art, having or showing an erect penis

(2) Sal - Agrath - Shorea Robusta

Sal is a tree of the lower altitudes, being found in Nepal from the Terai to about 1200 meters. Is one of the most important timber in India and Nepal. It is used for building constructions and for any kind of works where strength and durability are the main criteria. The wood is also used in temples for carvings and for decorative beams and doors. This is the most widely used timber for any wood work in Nepal.

The Roofs

The Struts

Kathmandu Valley

According to mythology the Kathmandu Valley was once a holy lake encircled by mountains. Was an important trade route between India and Tibet, which explains its historical, political, and economic importance, and its artistic roots.

Kathmandu City

Kathmandu is capital of Nepal. The name of Kathmandu is derived from Kasthamandap, an imposing Pagoda near Durbar Square. The Vishnumati River frames the west and runs north to south, with the Bagmati forming the southern boundary. Kathmandu is separated by a short bridge across the Bagmati River from the city of Patan. Kathmandu is also known as Kantipur, the capital of the Kingdom of Nepal.

Kathmandu Durbar Square

This is the historic places of the ancient kings of Nepal. A complex of many temples and monuments, built between the 12th-18th centuries.

Patan City

This city, once called Lalitpur (the beautiful city) lies across the Bagmati river, south-east of Kathmandu. The distance between the two Durbar Squares is approximately seven kilometers. The city is full of Hindu temples and Buddhist monuments with bronze gateways, guardian deities and wonderful carvings. Is the city of fine arts, enclosed within four stupas said to be built in 3rd century AD, by Emperor Ashoka.

Patan Durbar Square

Situated in the heart of the city, is the main tourist attraction. The square is full of ancient palaces, temples, and shrines noted for their exquisite carvings.

Bhaktapur City

To get to Bhaktapur (19 km from the heart of Kathmandu city) one has to travel to the eastern quarter of the Valley on a road fringed by rich green paddy-fields and brick houses.

Is also known as Bhadgaon meaning the city of devotees, this place is the home of medieval art and architecture. The city is at the height of 4600 ft. above see level.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square

Bhaktapur Durbar Square is an assortment of pagoda and Shikhara-style temples grouped around a fifty-five-window palace of brick and wood. The square is part of a charming valley as it highlights the wood carvings (struts, lintels, tympanums, gateways and windows).

“Secrecy is a pervasive and fundamental aspect of Bhaktapur's life. Its major symbolic representation is in the worship of the dangerous deities—above all in the Tantric mode with its emphasis on esoteric secrets, swearing of oaths to keep those secrets, and levels of initiation into progressively deeper ones. Many component units contribute elements to larger ritual or symbolic performances. Mask makers, ritual dancers, potters, image markers, astrologers, Brahmans, Acajus, and so forth may all contribute objects and/or actions.

Tantrism is intimately connected with the meanings of the dangerous deities who are the objects of its worship. Tantrism and the dangerous deities represent amoral forces and the force that controls such forces, and thus the possibility of using this force to protect the moral system itself. They represent danger and chaos, but also fertility and creativity”. Levy, Robert I. Mesocosm: Hinduism and the Organization of a Traditional Newar City in Nepal.

“The art of wood carving has been the pride of Nepal for many centuries. Woodwork has been part of traditional architecture of Nepal and wood carvings have graced monasteries, temples, palaces and residential homes since the twelfth century.The history of woodcarving in Nepal is older than that. A Chinese traveler Wang Hsuan Tsang (643 AD, has clearly mentioned the beautiful woodcrafts, wood sculptures, and decorations”.

"The people of Nepal are skilled in arts. Their houses are made of wood and carved." Wang Hsuan Tsang: Memoirs. AD 643.

]]> http://bigbazar.wordpress.com/?p=453 Fri, 08 Aug 2008 21:01:33 +0000 Sarrdanapale http://bigbazar.pl.wordpress.com/2008/08/08/katmandou-et-bhaktapur/ !!!

Last week I mentioned that we accidentally found a stupa while we were wandering around near Thamel trying to find the Everest Steakhouse.  On the way to Bhaktapur we passed another stupa.  It's prominent on the Ring Road, the main road that loops Kathmandu and Patan, and we also glimpsed it on our first day here, on the way from the airport to our house.  Since I had my camera handy last Saturday during the trip to Bhaktapur, I snapped a quick shot of it.

I'm afraid the picture is a little crooked.  But you can see its main features -- a rounded half-bowl surmounted by a square and then a tower of stacked rectangles.  And yes, on the square a "face" is painted -- a pair of prominent blue eyes above a spiraled nose that looks very much like the Nepali numeral that represents the number 1.  The face is painted on each of the stupa's four sides.

What look like colorful streamers are in fact prayer flags, small squares of cloth written with prayers.  The idea is that every time the cloth flaps in the breeze, the prayer is spread on the wind to bless everywhere the wind touches with peace and good will.

Prayer flags don't only appear on stupas.  I've read about, and seen pictures of, them fluttering beside roads and paths throughout the region of the Himalayas, especially in Tibet.  But they can also wave above houses.  I'm under the impression that our neighbors a couple of houses down to the north are Buddhist.  Because this is their roof:

Stupas and prayer flags are part of the Buddhist religion.  But Bhaktapur is majority Hindu, and there you find multiple Hindu temples, and Hindu shrines around every corner.  The best known is the five-story temple I mentioned in an earlier post.

But there are many others, and I have pictures of them, too.  Still, it's very late here, and I'm planning to watch a recording of my sister's school play before I go to bed, so I'll add just one more picture.  I took it in the Durbar Square of Bhaktapur just after we entered it from the path to Potters' Square.  I stood in the middle of the square and spun around and snapped quick photos -- so quick that I didn't focus on our tour guide's explanations enough.  I believe the picture below is of a temple to Shiva which is approximately 350 years old.

Maybe I should sell it as a postcard, hmm?

In other news, yesterday there was a partial eclipse visible here.  Except it was pouring down rain when it was supposed to start!  }:^(  The clouds did thin a bit during part of the time when the eclipse was supposed to have been visible, but I peered at those gaps and never found an eclipsed sun in them.

Nepali of the day:

ek:  one (the symbol for it likes more like an "Arabic numeral" 9

dui:  two

tiin:  three

char:  four

panch:  five

Now that you know everything you need to know about Bhaktapur and its wood carvings, what's left?

Why, Bhaktapur and pottery!

When one member of our group heard Bhaktapur was famous for its pottery, she muttered, "Oh, I need more pottery. About as much as a hole in the head."

I was interested because I actually do need more pots. (Okay, want. Yes, I'm confusing wants and needs again. This serves as disclaimer. Curse you, social studies teachers!) Very soon we plan to go to a nursery/gardening store here (yes, they do have nursery/gardening stores here... I was shocked, too) and buy some plants and seeds and seedlings. I'll perk up our too uniformly green yard with some flowers and vegetables and maybe even some fruits. And I'll put pots on our balconies.

Even if you're not particularly interested in pots, you have to admit you don't see this everyday:

...Unless you're a potter in Bhaktapur, in which case you might very well see it every day. This stash is right down the street from what's commonly known as Potters' Square, and the picture clearly explains why.

Did you notice the long shed behind the pots in the first picture?  When you walk around it, you can see how all those pots are fired in ingenious kilns.  The workers stack alternating layers of dried pots and straw, then cover the whole pile with hot ash.  I'm not quite sure how long they leave them in, but it's enough to fire them.  According to my handy "Moon Handbooks Nepal" guide, the temperature inside the kilns reaches 700 degrees Celsius (that's 1292 Fahrenheit!).

Then, after the firing, comes the inevitable reason for making so many pots:  selling them!

So, when it comes time to buy some extra pots for our yard, I know where to go!

First, several photos of a specific shop:

We didn't actually do any shopping while we were in Bhaktapur -- as another member of our group put it, we viewed the outing as a "reconnaissance trip," so that we could learn the layout of the city... and plan what to come back and buy. Too, the shop above isn't cheap -- Sean asked the price of a carved elephant about the size of one of the pictured tables, and was told it was $400.  This is still a country where you can bargain in many places, but still, I think the price would have been steep. Rightfully so, with so much fine detail added by hand.

But it's also possible to buy less expensive items carved from wood here. In the same square with the five-story Nyatapole temple (which will be in pictures posted later this week) I turned around and found this shop right behind me.  I imagine it does a brisk business with the tourists, and probably has a price range to accommodate many budgets.

In Kathmandu there are similar shops -- usually smaller, though, and likely many of them buy their merchandise from carvers in Bhaktapur. We bought a pair of carvings from just such a shop even before we went to Bhaktapur, including a replica of this window:

It's a very famous cultural landmark of the Kathmandu valley. And I agree the peacock window is beautiful, and well done -- but after seeing it amidst all the other amazing carvings of Bhaktapur, I'm not sure how to even begin to pick a favorite!

I mentioned yesterday that the citizens of Bhaktapur are largely preserving their culture, and their arts. For a very long time, they have earned fame for the beauty and detail of their carvings. I'm here to post some of that ancient heritage on the very non-ancient web. Enjoy!

First, an example from a typical private house:

And here's several photos of a centuries-old Brahmin house:

Next post, a view inside a woodcarving shop.

Nepali of the Day:

Bhaktapur ekdam purano shahar ho. -- Bhaktapur is a very old city.

(ekdam=very, purano=old, shahar=city, ho=is)

Since my last post, we have:

• test driven and bought a car
• designed and searched for and edited a lot of ESL lessons (okay, I did that, not we)
• visited Bhaktapur (and took plenty of pictures for all week)
• visited other people's houses
• been visited at our house by other people
• gone out to eat twice
• driven around the city in our new car (okay, Sean did that -- I helped navigate)
• found both English language movie theaters
• watched The Dark Knight
• gone shopping twice, with room for groceries & household goods in our new car

See? Aren't they good excuses?

Did I mention we now have a car? No pictures, though, yet. Later.

Right now I'll focus on Bhaktapur, because I'm sure its pictures will be more fun anyway.

First, you need to know that the area of Nepal we live in is known as "the Kathmandu valley," because it's exactly that, a low area surrounded on all sides by "hills."  The valley's ground is low and fairly flat because it was once the bottom of an ancient lake. But Kathmandu isn't the only city here. In fact, the valley holds three separate cities, and several smaller towns and villages.

Granted, with a growing influx of modernity, the urban areas are starting to merge into one large metropolitan area. I do notice when the buildings thin out for a while, and we pass more fields and patches of wild areas, but otherwise the only way I was certain we'd left Kathmandu the first time was when the business signs started listing their address as "Lalitpur" instead of Kathmandu. So you have the names of the three cities: Kathmandu, Lalitpur (AKA Patan), and Bhaktapur.

I'm sure I'll write more about their histories in a later Nepali Politics lesson. Right now, all you need to know is that a few centuries ago each of the cities was the capital of its own kingdom. And Bhaktapur was probably the most impressive of the bunch. It lost prestige to Kathmandu a couple hundred years ago, and a 1934 earthquake damaged many of its buildings. Still, all this has meant that the city has kept more of its native feel than the more cosmopolitan Kathmandu, and the impression has been helped by a project dating from the 1970s, spearheaded by Germany, to help Bhaktapur to reconstruct and preserve its monuments and display its vital culture.

I have enough to display and talk about with Bhaktapur for several days. To begin, here's a few pictures to give you a sense of its medieval feel:

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Interesting things to see here are; Taleju Temple built by king Mahendra malla in 1549 A.D.; Kal Bhairav, the God of Destruction, Nautalle Durbar, Coronation Nasal Chowk, The Gaddi Baithak, the statue of King Pratap Malla, the Big Bell, Big Drum and the Jagannath Temple.

On the right hand corner, larger wooden lattice screen hides an enormous gilded face of Sweta Bhairav. The screen is removed only during the Indra Jatra festival. There are also Numismatic Museum and Tribhuvan museum inside the Hanuman Dhoka Palace building. Photography is prohibited inside the museums. Both the museums remain closed on Tuesdays and government holidays.

Temple Of Kumari (Kumari Ghar): The temple or the residence of Living Goddess, “Kumari”, is situated in the vicinity of Hanuman Dhoka Palace. The building has profusely carved wooden balconies and window screens. The Kumari - the Living Goddess, acknowledges the greetings from her balcony window. Photography is prohibited.
Pokhara Travel Guide:
Pokhara is known more for its beautiful lakeside setting and panoramic mountain views of distant Himalayan peaks than for historical sights and culture. The lake is the second largest in the Kingdom, and the sight of brightly painted wooden boats and sails rippling across the reflections of icy summits, presents a picture of perfect serenity. It has become a popular base for some of Nepal’s finest trekking expeditions as well as the main centre for white water rafting and kayaking trips. The city provides a peaceful place to relax before or after tackling the mountains or the rivers, and there are a multitude of excellent shops supplying the necessary equipment for trekking expeditions.
Pokhara is divided into two parts – the lakeside and the bazaar area. The actual town or bazaar of Pokhara is set back from the lake, while the lakeside has become the main tourist-orientated zone brimming with bakeries, international restaurants, shops, souvenirs and woven handicrafts, bookshops, hotels and guesthouses.

The city is a favourite for visitors to Nepal as a relaxing break from the temples, noise and bustle of the Kathmandu Valley. There are ample opportunities for swimming, boating and fishing on the lake, or lazing on the sunny lakeshore before the magnificent backdrop of some of the highest mountains on earth.

 
Day 01 : ARRIVE KATHMANDU
Welcome assistance at the Tribhuvan International Airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon half day tour. Visit Swayambhunath Temple and Patan City. Overnight stay at hotel.
 
Day 02 : KATHMANDU - Mt. Flight
Morning transfer to airport to connect "Everest Experience Flight". Return to hotel for breakfast. Later continue sightseeing tour of Bhaktapur, Pashupatinath, Boudhanath and Old Kathmandu City.
Rest of the day free and overnight stay at hotel.
 
Day 03 : KATHMANDU/POKHARA By Air
Morning transfer to airport to connect flight for Pokhara. Assistance at the airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon half day city tour. Visit Bindebasini Temple, Seti George and Mahendra Caves. Evening free and overnight at hotel.
 
Day 04 : POKHARA - Sarangkot
Early morning drive to Sarangkot to see Sunrise over Himalayan Peaks. (optional)
Rest of the day free for individual activities OR boat ride in Fewa Lake. Overnight stay at hotel.
 
Day 05 : POKHARA/KATHMANDU By Air
Morning transfer to airport to connect flight for Kathmandu. Assistance at the airport and transfer to hotel. Rest of the day free and overnight stay at hotel.
 
Day 06 : DEPART KATHMANDU
Morning free time in Kathmandu. Transfer to airport to connect flight for onward destination.
 

For More details:
Nepal Visitors Network
P.O. Box :19760, Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal.
Tel :+977-1-4263133, Fax:+977-1-4216454
Mobile: +977-9841258665
info@nepalvisitors.com
www.nepalvisitors.com

Intanto a Bhaktapur, una delle città della valle di Kathamandu, si è tenuto un incontro per eleggere la nuova kumari della città. L’incontro è stato deciso dopo che il GSCO (il Guthi Sansthan Central Office, un organismo governativo deputato a queste decisioni) ha proposto, come nuova kumari di Bhaktapur, Shreeya Bajracharya, una bambina di sei anni.

Nella piccola città della valle, infatti, il “posto” di kumari è ormai vacante sin dallo scorso 19 gennaio, quando la kumari precedente, Sajani Shakya, si e’ ritirata.

Fino ad ora era il sacerdote del re ad avere l’autorità di decidere e dire l’ultima parola sull’approvazione delle kumari. Ora, con l’abolizione della monarchia, le cose sono cambiate e, per decidere sulla faccenda, sono stati consultati numerosi esperti ed è anche stato informato il Ministero delle riforme.

Narendra Prasad Joshi, capo del tempio di Taleju a Bhaktapur, insieme al suo aiutante, Nhuchhe Ratna Shakya, ha scelto la piccolo Shreeya fra molte altre ragazzine tra i due anni e mezzo e i sette anni. La scelta della bambina destinata a rivestire il ruolo di Kumari avviene seguendo un ben preciso rituale religioso.

Finora inoltre, i sacerdoti dovevano verificare che l’oroscopo dell’aspirante dea fosse compatibile con quello del re. In base alla tradizione, l’aspirante kumari deve possedere 32 qualità. La piccola Shreeya, hanno detto i responsabili del Guthi Sansthan, ha espresso una forte volontà di essere la nuova kumari di Bhaktapur e anche i suoi genitori ne sarebbero molto felici, aggiungendo che la bambina possiede molte delle qualità richieste tra cui la pelle chiara, i capelli e gli occhi neri e una voce cristallina.

La Kumari di Bhaktapur percepisce, come stipendio, 1700 rupie nepalesi mensili (circa 17 euro) da parte del Ministero delle Finanze e 450 rupie nepalesi mensili (circa 4 euro) dal Guthi Sansthan Central Office. A differenza della kumari di Kathmandu, che vive in un palazzo lontana dalla sua famiglia di origine, a Bhaktapur la kumari rimane con i suoi genitori.

Kumari of Patan “displayed” during this year's Nariwell Jatra of Rato Machindra Nath.

People were religiously touching her feet, bowing to her.. while she, the Living Goddess, remained lifeless.. sad.. and silent.

How can such glance, which is believed to bring good luck, confer anything but sadness?

She was made Goddess when she was 5. Now, almost 13 years old, she is awaiting her first menstruation - in other words, to be "sacked" from the divine designation as she becomes impure and sinned. Soon she will just be a former-goddess, soon she will have to start all over her normal life – soon she will be ostracized.

Her childhood, now all but a cruel memory intricate with seclusion and silence, sacrificed in the name of tradition. While other children played, cried, went to school and ran on the streets – she, the chosen one, sat inside her temple being trained not to speak, not to smile and not to cry.

All for the glory of “Shakya” family, all for the glory of Hinduism!

She never asked for this.

Tibetano en la plaza Durbar Square en Bhaktapur (Nepal).

I got up with the echoing sounds of peoples in my house. Ahh! the clashes are still going on. Today was Yomari Pune.

Yomari pune is a small festival in Newari families. In the day we cook delicious Yomaris. The name Yomari comes from two Nepal Bhasa words, "yo" meaning "to like" and "mari" meaning "delicacy". Yomari is made of rice flour and has sweet substances like chaku(i don't know the English synonym) inside it. Just look at the pic..

On the Suryabinayak site stone war is going on, however we are safe on the Durbar Square Area till now. I had to go to my nursery in Suryabinayak. That wasn't a tough thing to do eventhough there was fight there, instead we were excited to watch the fight with police. So I with my brother went to our Nursery. We were inspecting the plants and watering them. Then suddenly some groups of teens came running inside our nursery, to our surprise, police were behind them. OMG, I could not think what to do. I am of the teen age and i though the police are going to catch me too. So I went inside the Green House. Soon most of those boys were caught. Police were going to catch my brother too, he said that he was not one of them. But the police didn't listen to him, so at once he jumped to the bars, broke them out and ran off.

Well now i was like all alone inside the small Green House. I though to escape through the green house and i did so through the back. My hands had been all muddy and immediately a police came to me and hit me on my arm, AWW! that was so painful. I told them that i was not the boys running from, i was working in the Nursery. Then the police asked me to show my hand, I had a muddy hand so he belived me and left me. Same time another police came and tried to beat me but the noble police stopped him. From then I was safe with the police but still that one hit on the arm was very painful.

I kept quite watching the scenes. One of which i saw were two small kids, may be of 10 and 8. The police tried to catch them. The police got the small kid however the bigger kid ran off leaving a police man on grounds. That was a little funny scene. But it was not so funny with the big boys. If they were caught they were brutally beaten up.

Well with small pain i went home. The Yomari was waiting for me there. I enjoyed the whole evening with the Yomari. This day would be really memorable.

Η χτεσινή μέρα, another best day!

Το πρωί ξεκίνησε με μια υπεροχη γκάφα (want some slapstick?). Βγαίνοντας από ένα μικρό μαγαζάκι στο οποιο πήρα το πρωινό μου, αντικρίζω ένα ηλικιωμένο άνδρα με κάτι... πρασινάδες στο κεφάλι του. Τον πλησιάζω, αυτός πάει να απομακρυνθεί, του νεύω να ηρεμήσει. Τον ξαναπροσεγγίζω και αυτή τη φορα υποχωρεί (από ευγενεια και κατανόηση όπως αποδείχτηκε a posteriori, τέτοιος λαός οι Νεπαλέζοι). Πιάνω λοιπόν με cool (sic) ύφος τις πρασινάδες και τις πετάω στο δρόμο. Κοκαλωμένος αυτός, μου ρίχνει ένα βλέμμα παράδοσης, σαν χαρακτήρας σε τελευταίο καρεδάκι από strip του Αρκά. Εγώ ατάραχος. Έρχεται λοιπόν ένα παιδάκι διπλα και μου λέει σε σπαστά αγγλικά: "This is the flower of God"! Σειρά μου να ερμηνεύσω χαρακτήρα του Αρκά. Ποτε δεν μπορείς να είσαι σίγουρος με τις Indo-Βουδιστικές παραδόσεις... Ο Κώστας έκανε μια αντίστοιχη χοντράδα, αλλα θα σας τα πει ο ίδιος μάλλον στο blog του.

Μπήκαμε στο λεωφορείο με προορισμό το Πατάν, άλλο ένα χωριο της κοιλάδας του Kathmandu. Γιατί? Μα για το Rato Machhendranath Fest φυσικά. Όλα έχουν ως εξής: Για να γιορτάσουν τον ερχομό τον μουσώνων, το μεγάλο ποτιστήρι, οι Patan-έζοι φτιάχνουν έναν τεράστιο ξύλινο πύργο (ας πούμε 20m) τον οποιο τοποθετούν πάνω σε ένα ξύλινο, ζωγραφισμένο καρο με επίσης ξύλινες, μεγάλες ρόδες. Κάποιος ανεβαίνει στο καρο δίνοντας παραγγέλματα. Το καρο ρυμουλκείται από 2 δυνατά σχοινιά, το καθένα από τα οποια τραβάνε καμια 200αριά άτομα. Πρέπει λοιπόν όλοι αυτοί να μεταφέρουν τον πύργο για μια μεγάλη απόσταση μέχρι την κεντρική πλατεία. Χαμός από κόσμο οι οποιοι ζητωκραυγάζουν μετά από κάθε επιτυχημένη προσπάθεια, πριν από κάθε διάλειμμα. Η ρυμούλκηση δεν είναι παίξε-γέλασε. Παρόν ήταν ο στρατός σε περίπτωση που χρειαστεί να τραβήξει και αυτός... Οι κίνδυνοι πολλοί. Κάποιες χρονιες το... όλο οικοδόμημα καταρρέει τραυματίζοντας μεγάλο αριθμό παρευρισκομενων! Επίσης κατά τι ρυμούλκηση ο πύργος μαζεύει στο πέρασμα του καλώδια ρεύματος τα οποια και κατεδαφίζει! Μεγάλες surreal-ες...

Γυρίσαμε στο Bhaktapur το βραδυ. Πήγαμε να γεμίσουμε τα άδεια στομάχια μας σε ένα παραδοσιακό εστιατόριο κάποιων φίλων της Anya. Φάγαμε, βλέποντας το "Baraka" με τους νεπαλεζους (!), ήπιαμε (παραήπιαμε θα έλεγα) cheng (νεπαλεζικη μπύρα από ρύζι που βαράει στο κεφάλι) και ημι-μεθυσμένοι συρθήκαμε μετά τις 00:00 στην άδεια Durbar square του χωριου για να χορέψουμε Waltz, με σκυλιά να χοροπηδούν γύρω μας και ένα όργανο της τάξης να τραγουδάει βλέποντας μας!!!

No words,
E.

Ξύπνημα στην Bhaktapur, το παραδοσιακότερο χωριο (farming village) στην κοιλάδα του Kathmandu. Μεσαιωνική αρχιτεκτονική Newari, το κέντρο, τα κτήρια, από την εποχή των Malla. Η Anya (στην ηλικία μου, 24) διατηρεί ένα "διαμέρισμα" (ΕΥΡ 6 το μηνα) η καλύτερα δυο μικρά δωμάτια, το ένα πάνω απ'το άλλο (όλα τα κτήρια εδώ είναι πολύ στενά και ψηλά), υπνοδωμάτιο και κουζίνα. Ακριβώς πάνω βρίσκεται η ταράτσα με θεα το skyline της πόλης. Κάτω ένας πανάρχαιος βουδιστικός ναός. Η τουαλέτα είναι ένα σκοτεινό δωματιάκι με μια τρυπα στη μέση, 1x1m χωρίς φως η νερό, συχνά με... μικρούς επισκέπτες.

Το υπνοδωμάτιο απαρτίζουν μερικά στρώματα, ένα iMac (άντε και στα δικά μας) και μια ενδιαφέρον, μικρή βιβλιοθήκη την οποια ντύνουν βιβλία φωτογραφίας και νεπαλικη cultur...

Η Anya έχει σπουδάσει φωτό και δημοσιογραφία. Ταξιδεύει μετά από ερευνα της κάνοντας reportage με δικη της πρωτοβουλία χτίζοντας portfolio. Για την πτυχιακή τις έφτασε στα σύνορα Thailand-Burma και δούλεψε ένα κομμάτι για έναν ανταρτικο στρατό. Δεν έχω δει ακόμα δουλειά της. Ίσως το απόγευμα. Έδειξα το ενδιαφέρον μου και έδειξε να ενθουσιάζεται. Μου μίλησε και για το νέο της project, να περάσει δυο μήνες με ένα δεκατετράχρονο κορίτσι με καρκίνο σε σχετικό κέντρο της περιοχής (ξεχωριστό στο ότι όλοι δουλεύουν ως εθελοντές). Ίσως περάσω από κει αύριο να παίξω με το πιτσιρίκι. Έχω βάλει στο μάτι αυτό το μικρό κιθαρονι (1/4) που κρέμεται στον τοίχο της Anya...

Ξύπνημα στις 05:00 λοιπόν σήμερα. Πήγαμε μαζί της σε rendez vous μας στο - για άλλη μια φορα - στενό σπίτι ενός γερου (78 ετών) γιατρού Ayurveda, παλιού δασκαλου Yoga. Μας έδειξε κάποιες βασικές στάσεις και κουβεντιάσαμε σχετικά. Για άλλη μια φορα έμεινα ασυγκίνητος (ας με συγχωρέσουν οι οπαδοί). Τουλάχιστον το σκηνικό ήταν αυθεντικό. Με διασκέδασε η κουβέντα που κάναμε για τις δυτικές πρακτικές (yoga πάντα)...

More later,
E.

PS: Όσον αφορά τις photo, εδώ και μέρες έχω πετάξει το μπαλάκι στον John...

In known history, no kumari has traveled overseas like how this goddess did. She has broken centuries of customs and almost got her title stripped off by the Nepali authority for this breach of etiquette.

Here is the ABC News reporting on the living goddess’ visit of Washington DC.

ABC News Reporting on "The Living Goddess" Premiere
2:09

Here are the websites of the Living Goddess movie. It is a documentary featuring three living goddesses and exploring this unique religious tradition in Nepal.

Homepage

on Flickr

More on Kumari

Video: The New Royal Kumari - Living Goddess of Kathmandu

Video: Kumari - Living Goddess - Nepal

The Living Goddess in Nepal

Wish you all a very very happy new year. This new year is no ordinary new year for us Nepalis. Its a new year of new Nepal. Its a new beginning (hopefully is everything goes well in the constitutional election). This time, Bhaktapur is also going to observe a different Bisket. No irrational happenings. Everything will go fine during the festival because this time, the festival is being celebrated amidst the constitutional elections and the security has been tight as never before.

Everyone is enthusiastic and full of energy for the new year, for the new Nepal. We've waited for the elections and its here now finally. Lets see what the result brings. Everybody awaits the results with their fingers crossed. Hopefully everything turns out fine.

Happy new year once again!

ENJOY!

La ragazza era stata già al centro l'anno scorso di polemiche per aver lasciato Bhaktapur alla volta degli Sati Uniti, nei quali aveva fatto un viaggio. Al suo ritorno si formarono due fazioni: da un lato coloro che chiedevano una modernizzazione della figura della Kumari e quindi la possibilità, vietata dalle regole, di lasciare il paese. Dall'altra i tradizionalisti che non avevano visto di buon'occhio questa scelta del viaggio.

La famiglia di Sanjani ha fortemente chiesto che la loro pupilla lasciasse il trono, dopo questi mesi di accese polemiche. E la scelta non è parsa vera all'organizzazione che gestisce la vita della Kumari, tanto che si sono subito messi alla ricerca di una nuova kumari, secondo le regole tradizionali.

Qui una serie di foto sul Nepal.

Jeśli chcecie wiedzieć dlaczego ktoś wyrzeźbił w hinduistycznej świątyni w nepalskim mieście Bhaktapur dwa baraszkujące słonie, musicie zajrzeć na blog Spojrzenia.